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Twill:
Twill
shirt fabric will's diagonal parallel ribs make it
one of the easiest weaves to recognize. These
diagonal lines - also known as wales - are created
during the weaving process. The horizontal weft
yarn crosses over two vertical warp yarns and then
under one. This is repeated over and over and thus
the diagonal lines are created. If the Wales run
to the right, this is referred to as the Z
direction, or if they run to the left, it’s called
the S direction. If you want to show off a little,
there is a subset of twill called “twillette” that
is characterized by a dominant horizontal weft
yarn.
Herringbone:
Herringbone, an ancient European twill weave, was
present as early as 600BC and used by the Celtic
people in what are now Austria and Ireland. It is
characterized by a distinctive V shaped wale. It’s
zigzagging wale gives the fabric the appearance of
a fish skeleton - hence the name Herring (the
fish) Bone. In addition to adding a little bit of
style to a shirt, herringbone’s zigzag
construction also adds strength and durability.
With a shinier face, it can be very elegant and
formal.
Poplin &
Broadcloth:
Poplin is a plain weave that emphasizes more
tightly packed warp yarn, often double that of the
weft yarn. Fabrics that are considered “plain
weaves” are usually constructed with equal size
warp and weft thread, so, the yarns from the side
and from the top are equal in size. That is why
poplins usually weigh 110-140 gram per square
meter of fabric.
The main difference between broadcloth and poplin
is historic. Broadcloth was invented in England a
few centuries before the French invented poplin.
Essentially it is the same one over, one under
weave. Broadcloth tends to be slightly heavier,
120-160 grams per square meter, but this
difference is really semantic.
Poplin is lightweight fabric with a fine smooth
weave and a light texture. Broadcloth, a close
cousin – has a somewhat coarser texture, softer
feel and may be a bit thicker. Both are commonly
used for men’s dress shirts – hence our discussion
of them here. They are comparable in sturdiness,
so your choice depends on textural preference.
Poplin may feel somewhat cooler than the
broadcloth, but if they are both 100% cotton even
that might not be a significant difference.
OXFORD
Oxford fabric was originally created as one of
four innovative fabrics named after famous
universities – Oxford, Cambridge, Yale & Harvard –
in a Scottish fabric mill in the 19th century.
Unfortunately for the other three only the Oxford
pattern stood the test of time. Oxford is a type
of fabric called a basket weave. The heavier warp
thread passes over 2 finer warp threads and then
under one. This two over, one under pattern
repeats itself and results in slightly thicker
(usually 160-210 grams per square meter) cloth
with an obvious texture. In many oxford weaves,
the weft thread is un-dyed, creating an end-on-end
color texture throughout the weave. Its
versatility is one of its strongest selling points
as it is suitable for both formal and casual wear.
Because this kind of traps a lot of air, it also
has great insulating properties and thus –
depending on its thickness – can be a great choice
for winter. Oxford is so distinguished and
comfortable that Polo players wore long sleeve
Oxford shirts until Mr. Rene Lacoste invented his
polo shirt in the 1930’s.
Pinpoint Oxford is a step above typical Oxford
cloth as it is is woven from finer and lighter
threads. It is a smoother, more formal cloth that
is still good for everyday, but for someone who’s
looking for a bit more polish. When wearing Oxford
cloth – particularly the finer ones – it’s
important to be careful around sharp edges as
basket weaves tend to snag and tear easily.
Royal Oxford is the most refined of the Oxford
weaves. It uses extremely fine threads of a
lighter weight – such as fine Egyptian cotton with
a staple length of 140 or above. As a result, it
is lighter and finer to the touch than Oxford and
Pinpoint Oxford fabric. The finer thread also
lends the texture an extremely smooth hand feel.
Royal Oxford is best worn for dressy occasions.
FLANNEL
Flannel is a twill weave made from loosely spun
yarn, which leaves large amounts of air trapped in
them. That provides the insulation properties for
which flannel is so famous. It’s also why they
feel fuzzy and are used traditionally for winter
fabrics. When woven for summer, they have less air
in the weave and therefore retain less heat. |
